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Domaine Labet

Perhaps you’ve heard someone say “this smells like Labet,” watched wine geeks identify Labet wines with similar ease as having Coca-Cola in their glass, or even found yourself at a blind tasting thinking, “this can only be Labet”...

All scenarios have occurred to us several times through the years. And we’d argue there’s good reason for it, as Domaine Labet has a truly unique style. Something we wouldn't hesitate to call a DNA.
A signature that runs through both their white and red wines; shaped and refined through years of dedication to their parcels and winemaking styles. Something that with time has positioned the domaine as one of the most exciting, consistent high-quality, and still boundary-pushing producers in Jura.

This domaine is not a new rising star. For many Jura lovers, Domaine Labet is rather a wine galaxy of its' own.

Especially in recent years, the domaine has gained cult status and an ever-growing following. Honestly, we get it. If we could drink wines of Domaine Labet every day, we probably would.

In this article, we will introduce you to the domaine’s history, practices, and great portfolio of wines — from Savagnin to Trousseau and everything in between. Enjoy the read!

Making Wine Since 1974

The village of Rotalier, located in the southern part of Jura, remains the heart of the domaine. However, to understand the full story, we need to rewind more than 50 years back in time. To 1974, where the couple Josie and Alain Labet began their wine production with just 2.5 hectares of vineyards. Over time, more vineyards have been taken over, and as their children have been joining the estate, the portfolio expanded.

Josie and Alain’s three children; Julien, Romain, and Charline, has returned home to the domaine, one by one.
Julien, in particular, was highly ambitious, with a strong vision to produce 100% natural wines: organically grown and made without added sulfur during vinification. Between 2003 and 2013, he experimented and produced wines under his own name and label. During this time, the two domaines ran side by side.

The turning point came in 2013, when Alain and Josie chose to retire and hand over full responsibility to “the children.” The three siblings quickly agreed to merge the two projects into what is today simply known as Domaine Labet.

Philosophies of Labet

Over the years, more vineyards have been added to the estate and gradually converted to organic farming, incorporating biodynamic practices and a strong focus on increasing biodiversity and soil health. Today, the domaine cultivates approximately 13–15 hectares in total. These are spread across an impressive geographic patchwork, including:

4 communes
12 lieux-dits
44 individual parcels

The age of the vines naturally varies from parcel to parcel. However, the goal has always been to seek out and nurture old vines, and several plots are now home to vines up to 70 years old.

You’ve likely noticed that Labet’s portfolio today features a wide range of different labels — a clear reflection of the domaine’s diversity in grape varieties, vinification methods, vine age/rarity, and terroir.
Labet is particularly known for leveraging the great variation in their parcels' elevation, exposure, and soil composition, which is highly heterogeneous and complex — with combinations of red, white, blue, and yellow marl, often layered with limestone-clay, contributing to the wines’ signature minerality.

In other words, Labet’s approach and portfolio are a true expression of what is meant by terroir-driven wines.

Savagnin, Trousseau, Poulsard...

Domaine Labet work with the five classic Jura grape varieties:

Savagnin
Chardonnay
Pinot Noir
Trousseau
Poulsard

And in addition, Domaine Labet also produce a small amount of Gamay, however very limited as the grapes are coming from a tiny parcel.

Each year, Domaine Labet produces more than 30 different cuvées, which is nothing short of an impressive puzzle to piece together. Especially considering the consistently high level of quality and precision Domaine Labet manage to maintain.

All wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged primarily in 4–10-year-old barriques, on the lees (sur lie).

However, Domaine Labet's Crémant du Jura and their Chardonnay sous voile are aged in large foudres — oak barrels with a capacity of up to 4,200 liters.

Sous Voile - beyond Vin Jaune

Domaine Labet works with a clear dual-method approach in the vinification of their white wines. These reflect Jura’s two characteristic styles, while aiming to let terroir and grape variety shine through as purely and precisely as possible. One of the methods are:

Vin de voile (oxidative / under flor )

The wines are aged in barrels that Domaine Labet doesn't top up during the maturation process. This allows a layer of yeast cells, known as voile, to form on the surface of the wine. Beneath this veil, a controlled oxidation takes place, a hallmark of Jura winemaking. It is during this process that these wines of Domaine Labet develop their distinctive aromas and flavor notes of nuts, mushrooms, dried fruit, caramel, fresh herbs, and spices — characteristics that contribute to the unique complexity of these wine styles.
Labet uses this aging method for several of their wines, both Savagnin and Chardonnay, to varying degrees.
Domaine Labet’s Vin Jaune is an example of full oxidative aging: 6 years and 3 months under flor, in barrels that are never topped up. This results in the pronounced oxidative character for which this style is renowned.
Domaine Labet's wines made in this style include, among others:

Savagnin en Chalasse sous voile
Savagnin Les Varrons sous voile
Vin de Voile (Savagnin - blend of parcels)
Vin Jaune (Savagnin)
Chardonnay en Billat sous voile

Labet's Ouillé-style - Fleurs and more

The second winemaking method is known as “Ouillé.”

Domaine Labet was among the first producers in the Jura region to truly popularize this style—especially for white wines made from Chardonnay and Savagnin. As early as the 1990s, they began experimenting with it as an alternative to the region’s traditional oxidative style, described in the section above.

Ouillé style (“topped up” / filled barrels)

Inspired by Burgundy, this approach focuses on avoiding oxidation and preserving freshness, terroir expression, minerality, acidity, clarity, and finesse. By keeping the barrels topped up (“ouillé”), the formation of the flor layer, and thus the oxidative character, is prevented.

Domaine Labet’s wines in this style are typically aged for 12–24 months in old barrels, in order to avoid any influence of new oak.

Domaine Labet's wines made in this style include, among others:

Savagnin en Chalasse ouillé
Savagnin Les Varrons ouillé
Fleurs (Chardonnay)
Les Varrons (Chardonnay)
La Bardette (Chardonnay)
Les Champs Rouge (Chardonnay)
Bajocien (Chardonnay)

Minimal intervention

Domaine Labet has undoubtedly been a key factor in establishing Jura’s cult status and its place on the global wine map among enthusiasts worldwide. The estate is an inspiration to many, not only in Jura, but also in other wine regions where similar winemaking methods are being experimented with to achieve the distinctive Jura style.

The three siblings, running Domaine Labet today, consistently demonstrate vintage after vintage the great complexity and character of Jura. At the same time, they show how vibrant yet incredibly precise wines can be, despite, or perhaps thanks to, the Labet family's minimal intervention approach that among other includes natural fermentation, low or no sulfur additions, and no filtration.