Ganevat

In a time when the wine world is rather torn between traditions and the revolution of natural wine, few producers manage to unite the best of both worlds like Jean-François Ganevat.

In Rotalier, in the southern Jura, he started his domaine back in 1998. Fast forward to almost 30 years later, his wines are among the most sought-after and respected in France, while still being some of the most uncompromising.

Domaine Ganevat is more than just Jura wine; it is a manifesto. A true expression of terroir, time, and craftsmanship, where even the smallest parcel is allowed to speak its own language. For wine lovers seeking authenticity, complexity, and personality in the glass, Ganevat’s wines have become cult for good reason — and Fanfan himself an unofficial prophet of the Jura.

In this portrait, we take a closer look at the man, the methods, and the magic behind Domaine Ganevat.

The journey from Burgundy to Jura

Jean-François Ganevat grew up with wine. He is the 14th generation in a family of winegrowers in the Jura, but before returning home to take over the small family estate in 1998, he spent nine years at the iconic Domaine Jean-Marc Morey in Chassagne-Montrachet. There, he absorbed the Burgundian focus on precision, terroir, and barrel aging—experience that he would later transform into his own unique Jura aesthetic.

Biodynamics, micro cuvées and noble varieties

Ganevat quickly converted the estate to biodynamic farming and today works with extremely low yields, manual harvesting, and a non-interventionist approach in the cellar. At the domaine, he uses no added sulfur (with a few exceptions), no fining, and no filtration, and works with a remarkable range of old and often forgotten grape varieties such as Enfariné, Petit Béclan, and Gueuche.

A distinctive Ganevat signature is his many micro-cuvées. In some years, he produces up to 40 different wines from just 13 hectares—an outcome of meticulous selection, parcel by parcel, fermentation by fermentation. For him, it’s about allowing each micro-terroir and each grape to express itself without compromise.

It would be utopian to try listing all his vineyards and wines—especially when adding his négoce wines, which only make it more complex to get a full overview of his production. That said, we highly recommend diving in and perhaps starting by exploring the dominant grape varieties and styles he primarily works with. We delve deeper into that in the section below.

Wines of energy and terroir

Tasting Ganevat’s wines is like getting a high-level masterclass in Jura — and natural wine at its finest. Ganevat is particularly renowned for his Savagnin-based wines — both the ouillé (topped-up) style and the contrasting, oxidatively aged versions. Two very different schools.

Oùillé vs Oxidativ – two faces of Savagnin from Ganevat

At Domaine Ganevat, you’ll find both ouillé and oxidatively aged wines made from Savagnin—the same grape, but two vastly different expressions. The difference lies in the cellar work, particularly in how the wines are aged.

Ouillé (topped-up): When a wine is ouillé, it means the barrels are regularly topped up to prevent contact with oxygen. This results in a wine that retains its freshness, precision, and fruit character. Ganevat’s ouillé Savagnins are often crystal-clear, mineral-driven, and marked by a vibrant acidity—a kind of Jura dressed in Burgundian elegance. They express the terroir without oxidative influence and are typically more accessible in their youth.

Oxidative (not topped-up): Here, the wine is allowed to develop under a natural layer of flor (similar to Vin Jaune), with no topping up of the barrels. This leads to deeper, nutty aromas, spice, umami, and a complexity that often requires time and contemplation. These wines can be both majestic and demanding—and in Ganevat’s hands, they achieve a refined balance between power and precision.

Burgundy-craftmanship in Jura-terroir

Although Savagnin often steals the spotlight in Jura, Ganevat’s Chardonnay wines are among the most impressive in his range—and some of the most sought-after. This is due in no small part to his background in Burgundy.

Ganevat’s Chardonnays are almost always ouillé—aged without oxidative influence—and are typically fermented and matured in old Burgundian barrels. They possess a rare balance between Jura’s characteristic tension and minerality, and Burgundy’s richness, complexity, and finesse.

Depending on the vineyard and vintage, the style can range from lean and chalky to more generous and nutty. But what they all share is a precise acid structure, long aging potential, and a vibrant energy in the glass.

From noble varieties to the cult wines of today

Ganevat’s red wines are a vital part of his portfolio, and although Jura is best known for its whites, his reds have achieved cult status among connoisseurs.

Working with grapes like Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir, he crafts red wines that balance finesse and depth with an almost Burgundian precision—yet infused with the wild soul of Jura.

Poulsard (also known as Ploussard) yields the lightest and most translucent wines. In Ganevat’s hands, it becomes an ethereal yet aromatically complex red, with notes of strawberry, rose petals, and forest floor. These wines have a tea-like structure and a juicy, almost dancing acidity.

Trousseau offers darker fruit and more structure. Ganevat’s versions often show notes of dark cherry, pepper, dried herbs, and a mineral backbone that gives aging potential. Trousseau has depth, but in Ganevat’s style, always with an elevated, cool profile.

Pinot Noir brings a more classic elegance into the range. He uses it both in pure cuvées and in blends with Jura varieties. Ganevat’s Pinots are lean, perfumed, and vibrant—clearly shaped by his Burgundian background, yet still anchored in the tension of Jura terroir.

What unites all his red wines is the use of whole-cluster fermentation, no added sulfur, and long maceration, resulting in a natural texture and vivid energy. They’re typically bottled unfined and unfiltered, making them raw and immediate—yet deeply sophisticated.

These are red wines that don’t try to be grand—but somehow become just that. They demand time and attention, but reward with a complexity and sensuality rarely found outside the Jura.

Access rare bottles from Ganevat

In other words: there are truly exceptional experiences to be found on both the red and white sides of Ganevat’s portfolio. And for that very reason, these wines are far from easy to come by—but if you’re in search of your next great wine experience from Ganevat, you’ve come to the right place.

Feel free to explore and see what hidden gems the marketplace has to offer this week, sourced from top cellars across Europe.