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Cantine Nervi Conterno

You’ve probably noticed the labels with NERVI printed in bold, unmistakable block letters — instantly recognizable, especially if you're a fan of Nebbiolo. Although the estate is actually the oldest still-active winery in Gattinara, Alto Piemonte, it has changed ownership several times over the years. Today, it is backed by the legendary Langhe estate Giacomo Conterno, and since Roberto Conterno’s acquisition in 2018, it’s clear that Nervi has entered an entirely new league. I've visited the new cellar. Here's everything you need to know about the place and wines.

Written by Olivia Topp
Sommelier i ShareWine

The Story of Nervi and Conterno

The Nervi estate was originally founded in 1906 by Luigi Nervi, with the aim of cultivating Nebbiolo (locally known as Spanna) in a way that reflected the region’s distinctive terroirs. Over the years, the estate has changed hands to Norwegian businessman Erling Astrup. And it was Erling who, many years later, in 2018 sold the estate to his close friend Roberto Conterno. While Erling still retains a 10% stake, Conterno’s arrival has undeniably marked a turning point — and a highly positive one. The winery has been rebuilt from the ground up, including the construction of a very spectacular cellar, executed in true Conterno fashion: meticulous, ambitious, and uncompromising.

It’s clear that Roberto’s ambitions go far beyond simple ownership. He has brought with him not only soul, experience, and prestige from his family’s legacy in Monforte of Barolo, but also a bold vision! One that he has fused with deep respect for tradition and the unique terroir of Gattinara.

The area of Gattinara lies in the far north of Piedmont (Alto Piemonte), at the foot of the Monte Rosa glacier, which is the second-largest glacier in the world. The region is characterized by its volcanic soils, composed of remnants from a collapsed, decomposed volcano.

What sets Nervi-Conterno’s vineyards apart is their distinctive red volcanic soil, rich in nutrients and high in iron content. That being unlike the more typical grey or black'ish volcanic soils found most other places in the area.

The first "fully Conterno" vintage is 2018. However 2016 and 2017 are also bottles by Conterno and has a "transitional label" that looks something in between the old Nervi lable and the new Conterno label. The reason for this is that the wine of these two vintages was made by Erling but still aging in the celler at the moment when Roberto Conterno took over in 2018.

The New Celler of Nervi Conterno

The photos in this article were taken during my visit to the new winery in the spring of 2025.

What a place! Full of breathtaking features, among other things, a suspended tasting room elevated above the aging cellar. Below it, the Nebbiolo rests in classic Piemontese botti grandi. The large, vertical oak foudres identical to those used by Roberto Conterno in his Barolo cellar in Monforte d'Alba.

It’s immediately clear how traditions go hand in hand with great perfectionism, innovation and ambitions throughout the entire space.

I’ve personally visited well over 100 wineries around the world, but I’ve never tasted wine in surroundings quite like these. A visit is highly recommended.

The Nebbiolos of Nervi Conterno

The Nervi Conterno estate has a total of 28 hectares, planted exclusively with Nebbiolo. The grapes are however used to produce not only one, but five different wines:

Nervi Conterno Il Rosato (Rosé wine)
Nervi Conterno Jefferson Spumante Metodo Classico Rosé Dosage Zero (traditional method sparkling wine)
Nervi Conterno Gattinara DOCG
Nervi Conterno Gattinara Vigna Molsino DOCG
Nervi Conterno Gattinara Vigna Valferana DOCG

During my visit, I had the pleasure of tasting both of Nervi Conterno’s flagship wines; the single-vineyard bottlings Vigna Molsino and Vigna Valferana, in the (at that time) still-unreleased 2021 vintage. It is expected to hit the market in the autumn of 2025.

As was the case in Piedmont’s famed Langhe region further south, 2021 was an exceptional vintage in Gattinara as well.

And wow — what an experience it was having these wines served in Conterno’s outstanding Sensory glassware. Tasting side by side offered a deep dive into the remarkable complexity and difference between these two vineyards that despite being located as little as 50 meters apart, have vastly different microclimates.

Read on below for my tasting notes and a closer look at how these two great wines expressed themselves.

Nervi Conterno's Top Crus: Vigna Molsino og Vigna Valferana

The tannins in the Nervi wines generally feel softer and smoother than those in Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo wines, likely due to the more mineral-rich volcanic soils of Gattinara. Both wines are aged for 48 months in large botti.

Nervi Conterno Vigna Valferana 2021

On the nose, Valferana presents itself as the more open and expressive of the two. It is undeniably charming, with a floral-driven aromatic profile: violets, rose petals, and orange blossom, intertwined with delicate, sweet red berries — particularly strawberry bursting out of the glass. The bouquet offers an lively ethereal sensation wrapped in the most light, airy elegance, I could think of when it comes to Nebbiolo.

On the palate, however, Vigna Valferana reveals a deeper, more structured side. The fruit turns a bit darker, with notes of ripe cherry and balsamic undertones. Though it shares the same volcanic soil as Molsino, Valferana expresses a distinctly iron-rich character — with a subtle, sanguine note and a saline minerality reminiscent of salted liquorice. It’s a wine of great aromatic range, showing an intriguing contrast between the lift of the nose and the depth and intensity of the palate.

Nervi Conterno Vigna Molsino 2021

With a different exposition, Nervi's Molsino vineyard is particularly influenced by the cold alpine winds descending from the nearby Monte Rosa glacier. And thus it was no surprise to me that Vigna Molsino feels more vertical on both the nose and palate. The nose opens with a pronounced mineral character, deep and focused. Yet the wine is far from austere: rising through the glass with wild forrest berries, fresh herbs, and a touch of sweet liquorice.

On the palate, the tannins are almost powder-fine, revealing themselves with impressive precision; initially felt on the tip of the tongue, then slowly moving to your gums. The wine is juicy and vibrant, led by ripe cherry, followed by some cassis and subtle hints of dried fruit. With time and oxygen in the glass, the nose evolved further, allowing the fresh, aromatic herbs to come even more clearly into focus. This wine is really speaking of depth and earthyness, whereas Valferana speaks the lifted, more perfumed, red fruit-driven soul of Nebbiolo.

*photo courtesy of www.Ilvinoso.com